A History of Boat Cove, Dawlish in Devon

For centuries, Dawlish was a small, quiet community grouped around the Church by Dawlish Water, about half a mile from the seashore. It was not on any main travelling route, so it was not easy to get to. At the end of Dawlish Water, by the seashore, there were other dwellings belonging to fishermen and their families. 

The Ingenuity and Trials of Dawlish's Fishermen

At the start of the 16th century, fishing was an important source of food and income in Dawlish. Fishing in Dawlish was a family business, which was passed from father to son. The fishermen worked from the beach, storing their boats and gear and drying their nets above the shoreline.

Even though Dawlish did not have a harbour, it had many fishermen who fished using rope seine nets. A seine net is a large fishing net that hangs vertically in the water, with floats along the top edge and weights along the bottom. Fishermen would row the nets out to encircle a school of fish and could catch large numbers of herring and mackerel. It was a hard life and you could not be successful working on your own, which is why families of three generations worked the same boats.

As if earning a living from fishing wasn't hard enough, in 1535, fishermen had to pay a tithe tax on their fish catch. A tithe was a common form of tax at this time and could be one-tenth of a person's produce or earnings, which they had to pay to the Church or local clergy. 

The Maritime Affairs of Dawlish in the 16th and 17th Centuries.

During the 16th Century, England was involved in naval conflicts with Spain and France, which meant the British navy recruited thousands of sailors. As a result, by the 1620s, Dawlish town had many sailors living in it. 

By 1619, Dawlish had 2 ships and a large number of seamen that included 15 master mariners, 116 sailors and 15 shore-fishing seinemen. At the same time, Teignmouth, with its harbour, had 7 ships, 14 master mariners and 92 sailors. So, by comparison, Dawlish had a large sailing community, given it did not have a harbour. 

The Flourishing Fisheries of Dawlish

By the mid-1700s, Dawlish's fishing industry was flourishing. The Dawlish fishing families of this time included the Tapleys, Babbs, and the Bricknolls. These fishermen used small sailing and rowing boats to draw their large seine nets a short distance from the shore, landing their catch back on the beach. Their fishing boats were clinker-built, a traditional wooden hull construction method. Some boats were built in Dawlish at what was, Vicary's Yard, now Brook Street. By 1770, the fishing industry had taken up much of the beach. Fishermen worked from the beach, setting their seine nets, which were fixed near the entrance to Dawlish Water.

The Tumult of the Napoleonic Wars

The Napoleonic Wars in the 1790s meant that Torbay became a naval base, which resulted in many Naval Officers and their families moving to Dawlish. During this time of conflict with France, wealthy British people couldn't take holidays in Europe, so they holidayed in Britain instead. Dawlish became one of the most fashionable Devon holiday resorts. 

This popularity brought an intense period of development in the Dawlish, which by 1803, included the laying of a gravel track along Marine Parade. This new track made it easy for people to access Shelter Cove at the west cliff end of Dawlish. Shelter Cove was the original name for Boat Cove, it being the perfect place to shelter boats from a southwesterly storm. 

The Geological Features of Dawlish and its Coves

Many people think of Dawlish's Red Rock as the Langstone Rock, which is the large red sandstone rock near Dawlish Warren. However, Red Rock is actually the sandstone pinnacle on the seaward side of Boat Cove. This Red Rock was also known as 'The Bishop' and 'The Old Bachelor'.

Today, Boat Cove and its Red Rock lead to Coryton Cove, but it hasn't always been easy to access Coryton's sandy beach. In 1830, the Red Rock at Boat Cove was attached to the Lea Mount cliff. This meant that the only way to access Coryton Cove was via a low-tide hole in the rock, which provided a tunnel for people to get to the beach. This tunnel was called Cows Hole and allowed holidaymakers to enjoy the beach at Coryton, where they could find cowrie shells. 

The Construction of the Breakwater and Its Effect on the Fishermen of Dawlish

The railway arrived in Dawlish in 1846, creating a barrier between the town and the sea as it ran across the top of the beach. The fishing boats used to be laid up on the main beach, but the railway line meant that they couldn't be drawn up so far and were therefore, more vulnerable to the high tides and storms. 

The railway meant that the only access to the main beach was via a collonade at the river mouth and an underpass at the Shelter Cove end of Marine Parade. 

The railway brought more visitors, and so with less room on the main beach for the fishermen, much of the fishing activity began moving to Shelter Cove. 

The Boat Cove breakwater did not exist before the railway arrived. The railway company constructed it in 1846, and it was called the Pout Wall. It was initially built of limestone and later strengthened with granite. In recent years, it has been strengthened with concrete. The original Pout Wall had buttresses on the landward side, which were later filled in and, landing steps and handrails were added. You can still see these today.

Alterations to the Cliffs and the Contstruction of 'Early's Wall'

In 1860, a mound was built between Red Rock and the cliff to protect the boats from the prevailing southwesterly winds.

After the Pout Wall was built, Shelter Cove became a more protected location for the fishermen to keep their boats and gear, it became known as Boat Cove. 

However, fishermen were reluctant to move their boats to the new cove as it was easier for them to land their catches near the colonnade. It was a slow migration, but as the main beach became busier with holidaymakers, fishing activity moved to Boat Cove. 

At this time, two promontories ran into the sea at either end of the Lea Mount cliff. This created a small cove between Boat Cove and Coryton Cove. After a landslide tragically killed three members of a family picnicking in the small cove, the cliffs were scarped, and the rock cut from the cliff was made into a platform behind a sea wall called Early's Wall. This wall at the base of the cliff was built by local builder Richard Early and is known as Early's Wall. Early's wall created a promenade between the two coves, which is still there today.

At this time, there was a small stack of red rock just off Early's wall, which was called Old Maid. It used to be a tall, pointed rock with what looked like a head at the top and an archway through it. After the top fell off, it was called Toad Rock, as that is what it looked like. There is not much left of this rock now, and some people call it Muffin Rock.

By 1864, the main beach had been declared as the Lady's Swimming Beach, and so the fishermen were not always welcome there. Bathing Machines were operated and offered to the bathing ladies. Coryton Cove beach was known as The Gentlemen's Bathing Cove, and men were banned from swimming on the main ladies' swimming beach. The gentlemen had to swim out of sight around the cliff at Coryton. 

The Improvements to the Railways and Their Impact on the Fishing Trade

In 1873, the railway rails were changed to narrow gauge, and the lines doubled, as it is today. With the railway at the top of the beach, it was ideal for the fishermen to send their catches to London by rail. At this time, pilchards were prolific in the seas of Dawlish, and the fishermen were able to catch thousands of them. They packed them into barrels, which were then loaded on London-bound freight trains. 

The same year, a footbridge was built from Marine Parade to Boat Cove, providing access for visitors and fishermen.

The Evolving Amenities and Activities on the Shores of Dawlish

By 1880, the new Lady's Bathing Pavilion built on the seafront meant the bathing machine proprietors had competition. Fishermen continued to work at Boat Cove and nearby the bathing pavilion, keeping their clinker boats and gear opposite the Blenheim hotel.

In 1886, the first fisherman's shelter was built at Boat Cove. By this time, all the fishing boats had moved to Boat Cove, and pleasure boating became popular. Boats could be hired, and visitors could take a pleasure boat trip, although, on a very low tide, people had to make their way out beyond the Pout Wall to board a boat.

The Construction of the 'Kings Walk'

The Kings Walk pathway was built in 1902. This was the original walkway running from the railway station to Boat Cove. It was named the King's Walk, in honour of King Edward VII's coronation the same year. Halfway along the walk was a steep flight of steps to the beach, known as King Harry's Steps.

The Abundance of Marine Life in the Early 20th Century

In the early 20th century, fish were plentiful. In 1906, boatman Charles Cotton and two others beat the local record for mackerel catching by hook and line. In less than 6 hours, the three hooked 850 mackerel. 

The Changing Customs of Bathing and the Rise of Leisure in Dawlish

Eventually, families were allowed back on Coryton beach. By 1906, the previously named Gentlemen's Bathing Cove became known as Coryton Cove. It is most likely named after the nearby railway tunnel. The tunnel was named after Miss Coryton, who lived at Cliff Cottage in the early 1800s, overlooking the cove.

Around 1915, working people across the country were taking paid holidays. Dawlish became a popular location for these holidaymakers, and the beach became an important attraction for families.

Beach huts popped up everywhere at Coryton Cove with all sorts of strange designs. Some were made of old bathing machines with their wheels removed. The Dawlish beaches were now a playground for children and adults alike.

Meanwhile, fishing from Boat Cove continued, with a second Boatman's Shelter built to replace the first. Barrels of fish continued to be sent to London by train until the 1920s.

The Impact of the Second World War and the Subsequent Rise in Leisure at Dawlish

The Second World War brought changes. There was the dramatic blowing up of the Lady's Bathing Pavilion. It was thought it could have been used as an enemy landing point. Anti-tank devices were dug into the beaches, and Coryton Cove was made out of bounds. 

After the war, the beaches at Dawlish were very popular throughout the 1950s and early 1960s. Trains brought an influx of visitors in the summer, especially on Saturdays. Everyone dressed to enjoy the sun and get a tan. It was now acceptable to undress on the beach, so all the tents and many of the huts disappeared.

Sailing, rowing and motor boats could be hired from Boat Cove, and fishing trips around the bay were available with local fishermen. Water polo matches were held just off the beach, which attracted big crowds, and annual water sports and swimming races were held in August. 

Boat Cove had rowing, fishing and motor boat hire. There were two-hour mackerel fishing trips from the cove in summer. There was even a Dawlish Regatta at Boat Cove in the 1960s. Pleasure boating continued to be a popular activity at Boat Cove in this period. 

Reflecting on the Present State of Boat Cove and its Enduring Legacy

The growth of overseas package holidays in the late 20th century meant there was a gradual decline in beach holidays at Dawlish, and boats could no longer be hired at Boat Cove by the end of the 1960s. However, throughout the later part of the century, fishing and leisure boating continued at the cove. 

In the 21st Century, Boat Cove is a quieter place with no commercial fishing activity. However, the cove has not lost its charm. The old fishing boat winches and tail-line rings are still there. Crab and lobster pots are still kept there. A few locals continue to fish from boats with crab pots and mackerel lines, and one winch is still used for hauling the 'Sea Dog' crabber boat up the slipway. Locals keep boats there for leisure and a spot of fishing. 

Boat Cove is a lovely sheltered beach for swimming, boating, paddleboarding and fishing. You can find cowrie shells and sea glass if you look closely. You can watch the spectacular steam trains race past in the summer, bellowing steam as they disappear into the tunnel. There is a cafe at Coryton Cove with beach huts for hire, and you can catch a pleasure boat trip in the summer right from Boat Cove beach. 

With all its history, Boat Cove is an important part of Dawlish life. It continues to be a place where you can connect with the past, have fun at the seaside, and make great summer memories.

With thanks to Dawlish History for publishing such useful resources which I referenced when writing this article.

References:

• Dawlish Timeline, 17/01/2025. Dawlish History, Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/articles/timeline.pdf

• Dawlish History, Dawlish Beaches 1770 - 2020, Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/historyDA.html

• The Dawlish Gazeteer, 16/12/2022. Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/maps/dawlishgazetteer.pdf

• The History of Dawlish, T. Whiteaway, Dawlish History, http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/historyTW.html

• Dawlish History, Issue 154, October 2022. Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/newsletters/Newsletter2022Oct.pdf

• Boat Tragedy. Boat Cove boatmen Cotton and Rackley's rescue. Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/newsletters/Newsletter2012Mar.pdf

• Recollections of Pre-war Boat Cove. Phillip Daniell. Available at: http://www.dawlishhistory.org.uk/newsletters/Newsletter2006Sep.pdf